Ponencia, comunicación ou charla

The Woven Archive. Material Characterization of Textile Collections in Archives and Libraries.

2023. Inglés

Asinan
Jitske Jasperse (autora de contidos)
Ana Cabrera Lafuente (autora de contidos)
Paul Dryburgh (autor de contidos)
Edith Sandstroem (autora de contidos)
Lore Troalen (autora de contidos)
Margherita Longoni (autora de contidos)
Silvia Bruni (autora de contidos)
Sau Fong Chan (autora de contidos)
Valentina Risdonne (autora de contidos)
Lucia Burgio (autora de contidos)
Sotiria Kogou (autora de contidos)
Adam Gibson (autor de contidos)
Ina Vanden Berghe (autora de contidos)
Lora Angelova (autora de contidos)
Resumo
Textiles are present in archival and library collections in multiple and sometimes surprising forms: enclosed in letters, in fabric swatch books and as samples in dyers´ notebooks; but also, as wrappings for wax seals, in embroidered bindings or as the substrate of early photographs known as pannotypes [1]. Such textiles are a relatively unknown and understudied resource, as often they are not included in public catalogues nor digitized. Interestingly, textiles in archives and libraries are, in general, astonishingly well preserved: their vibrant colours kept away from the light and other environmental factors, which may have degraded to some extent the archaeological textile fragments and historic garments we see in museums. In addition, archival textiles are often accompanied with documentation that allows us to contextualize and accurately date them. All this makes archival and library textile collections an invaluable resource for materiality research.

Efforts are being made to create awareness about the presence of textiles in libraries and exchange knowledge between different professionals dealing with their conservation and material research [2], as well as to capture materiality in ground-breaking digitization projects [3]. This paper introduces three new projects investigating the materiality and conservation aspects of relevant textile collections at The National Archives and beyond:

-Capturing the Materiality of the Prize Papers: a set of 19th century textile samples from Canton and Batavia as a case study.

-Out of the Bag. Unravelling Medieval Seal Bags through Cultural Studies and Scientific Analysis [4].

-From Natural to Synthetic. Analysis of the dyes in the textile samples from the Board of Trade Volumes between 1856 and 1859.

The collections, research questions, methodological approach, preliminary results and next steps will be briefly presented. The analytical techniques used for material characterization of the dyes, mordants, fibres and metal threads include: MSI, VIS-NIR FORS, Raman, SERS, UHPLC-PDA, UHPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS/MS, XRF scanning, 3D digital microscopy, MFT.

[1] I. Vasallos, The Pannotype Mystery, TNA blog, 2019 https://blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk/the-pannotype-mystery-part-1-historic-photographic-processes-in-design-registers/

[2] VVAA, Textiles in Libraries: Context and Conservation, The Conveyor, 2021. https://blogs.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/theconveyor/tag/textiles-in-libraries/

[3] VVAA, Prize Papers Materiality, 2022 https://materiality.prizepapers.de/

[4] J. Jasperse, L. Pereira Pardo, Beautifully wrapped in silk: Medieval seal bags unravelled, TNA blog, 2022 https://blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk/medieval-seal-bags/